Friday 30 August 2013

CHARLOTTE IN WARSAW – IS IT REALLY HIPSTERS' DEN?

 

Reportedly, the most hipster place in Warsaw is Saviour Square ('Plac Zbawiciela' in Polish), and the most hipster place in Saviour Square is Charlotte. When I was in Warsaw, I decided to investigate it myself, especially because I really liked the Charlotte café and bakery in Kraków (you can read about it here).


Saviour Square seems to be one of the most charming corners in the Polish capital. The round square with solid buildings in Socialist realism style is dominated by a neo–baroque Church of the Most Holy Saviour and a half–burnt rainbow awaiting reconstruction. Charlotte is housed in one of the buildings with a colonnade, under which you can find a pleasant beer garden with a view of the whole Square. The café’s interior is rather stark and industrial but it's enlivened with a huge common table decorated with fresh flowers.

My friend, Jasmine, and I sat at one of the few free tables under the colonnade and we were immediately approached by a cute waiter. With his side swept blonde fringe and impeccably white shirt he didn't look like a hipster at all. We discreetly glanced around but unfortunately we couldn't notice anyone bashing out at their typewriter, wearing their granddad’s clothes or even wearing glasses without lenses. We were a bit disappointed. ;)


Nothing in the menu seemed particularly hipster, either. We had a problem to choose just one dish from all the French delicacies but finally Jasmine ordered quiche with ham and asparagus (PLN 9), while I settled on a French toast called pain perdu (literally 'lost bread' in French), which was golden, crunchy and lavishly covered with honey (PLN 12). Yum. :)


Sipping aromatic coffee, we almost gave up hope of meeting a real hipster but at last I saw him! He was wearing a hat (granddad’s?), thick–framed, black glasses, checked shirt, rolled up corduroy trousers and the final proof – elegant, leather shoes without socks. So Charlotte does sometimes become hipsters' den. Mystery solved. ;)

Address: Plac Zbawiciela (Savior Square), Warsaw


Sunday 25 August 2013

BREAKFAST IN KOLANKO NO. 6


I've already written about Kolanko No 6 here, at the beginning of my blog. It remains one of my favourite places in Kazimierz district and I visit it quite frequently. Recently, with my friend Gosia  I've gone there for breakfast and I was really pleasantly surprised by it.



First, I was astonished by the price - mere PLN 18 for all-you-can-eat buffet with drinks (coffee, tea and water) included. Then I was amazed by the variety of food: from fried sausages and bacon, to platters of cheese and cold cuts, to French tarts, to fresh vegetable salads, to muesli with yoghurt and cream and fruit cakes... And finally I was surprised by the quality of food - everything was nice and fresh (the chef constantly brought more and more dishes), because apparently all the food, including crunchy bread rolls and home made pâté, is prepared on the spot.



Everything disappeared from the tables so quickly that in the photos you can see only miserable (though still yummy) leftovers. I especially liked French tarts, cream and raspberry cake, and guacamole with sun-dried tomatoes. We finished off with home made lemonade with raspberries and orangeade with pieces of fresh oranges (PLN 7 each). It was a perfect ending to a long and lazy breakfast. :) 

Address: ul. Józefa 17, Kraków (Kazimierz district)







 

Saturday 24 August 2013

9TH MALOPOLSKA TASTE FESTIVAL (9. MAŁOPOLSKI FESTIWAL SMAKU) - LOCAL DELICACIES


Until tomorrow (25th August 2013) you can visit 9th Malopolska Taste Festival (9. Małopolski Festiwal Smaku) in Kraków's Jewish quarter, Kazimierz. Because the Festival's central theme is traditional food from Lesser Polska region (Małopolska in Polish) you can find here sourdough breads, traditional Polish sausages and cured meats, honey and of course oscypek (sheep cheese from the Tatra mountains). I especially liked cherry and buttermilk ice cream, which had a rich, buttermilk flavour.



The Festival is a great way to try lokal delicacies from Kraków and its region. :)


When: 24-25 August 2013 (Saturday and Sunday)
Where: plac Wolnica, Kraków (Kazimierz district)  
More info (in Polish): Wrota Małopolski










Thursday 22 August 2013

9TH MALOPOLSKA TASTE FESTIVAL (9. MAŁOPOLSKI FESTIWAL SMAKU) THIS WEEKEND



Another food festival in Kraków! This time it's the Grand Finale of the 9th Malopolska Taste Festival (9. Małopolski Festiwal Smaku). This weekend, 24-25 August 2013, in Wolnica Square in Kraków, you'll have a chance to try traditional food from all over Lesser Polska region (called Małopolska in Polish).

Apart from eating local goodies (I'm especially curious about buttermilk ice cream...), you'll be able to listen to live music and take part in some contests about Małopolska region as well as workshops for culinary bloggers.

Seems like there's another tasty weekend ahead. :)

When: 24-25 August 2013 (Saturday and Sunday)
Where: plac Wolnica, Kraków (Kazimierz district)
More info (in Polish): Wrota Małopolski



Sunday 18 August 2013

I SCREAM, YOU SCREAM, WE ALL SCREAM FOR ICE CREAM - THE BEST ICE CREAM PARLOURS IN KRAKÓW


Kraków is by no means lacking in ice cream parlours and probably every resident has their favourite one. I've got three. :) But if you think I've overlooked a good ice cream shop, please let me know - I'll have a perfect excuse to visit it and eat one more scoop of gelato. ;)

FAMOUS ICE CREAM IN STAROWIŚLNA STREET - QUEUE UP! 




If you walk Starowiślna Street in the Kraków Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, and see an endless queue, it doesn't mean that the communism with its food ration cards is back in Poland. It's just a line to the legendary ice cream parlour which sells delicious, milky ice cream (PLN 2,50 for one scoop) with pieces of real fruits. And waiting in the queue will only whet your appetite so the ice cream will seem to be even more delicious....

Address: 83 Starowiślna Street, Kraków, Kazimierz district
Website: www.facebook.com/LodyStarowislna

TRADITIONAL ICE CREAM IN ZWIERZYNIECKA STREET - LOVELY AND WITHOUT A QUEUE 




If you liked the ice cream in Starowiślna Street, you should also try gelato in Zwierzyniecka Street, just next to the Kraków Philharmonic. In a tiny shop you can buy a few basic but delicious flavours (PLN 2.20 for one scoop). I especially love chocolate ice cream with morsels of chocolate, and bakaliowe with pieces of crunchy nuts and raisins. I must admit that the lack of a queue, lower prices as well richer taste give Zwierzyniecka Street's ice cream an advantage over Starowiślna's. And which one do you prefer? :)

Address: 3 Zwierzyniecka Street, Kraków, Old Town
Website: www.facebook.com/lodytradycyjne

DONIZETTI IN MARKA STREET - ITALIAN GELATO 


 

Donizetti in św. Marka Street is one of the youngest ice cream parlours in Kraków as it was open just this summer. I discovered it by chance while walking my dog around the quaint streets of the Old Town. I decided to try it out because the sign on the window said their ice cream is made only from natural ingredients, without any white sugar.

The flavours served by this Italian parlour are also quite unusual, for example I tried here gianduja ice cream (chocolate with hazelnut paste) as well as sweet and salty pistachio ice cream which tasted exactly like roasted pistachios. One scoop in Donizetti costs as much as PLN 3 but I think their ice creams are worth their price. Especially because they're served in tasty, tulip-shaped cons. :)


Address: 23 Św. Marka Street, Kraków, Old Town




And for dessert, one of my favourite songs about ice cream. Enjoy! :)


Sunday 11 August 2013

11th PIEROGI FESTIWAL (XI FESTIWAL PIEROGÓW), 8-11 August 2013, KRAKÓW

Today you've got the last chance to take part in XI Festiwal Pierogów (meaning '11th Pierogi Festival' in Polish), which is taking place in Mały Rynek in Kraków. You can try there all types of pierogi (i.e. traditional Polish dumplings) with both traditional and more unusual fillings, such as red pierogi with purple cabbage, pierogi with duck and cranberries, and many more. One pieróg costs around PLN 1.5 - 2.0. 

I've decided to try chocolate pierogi with strawberries from Magillo but they turned out to be quite bland. Pierogi with nuts and raisins from Resto Prego, on the other hand, were absolutely delicious. I liked them so much I decided to buy more pierogi from this stand - with meat filling, cabbage and mushrooms, and with raspberries - and all of them were equally tasty. :)

And do you know who's the patron saint of pierogi? It's Saint Hyacinth of Poland ('święty Jacek' in Polish). You can see him in the last photo. :)

Website about the festival (in Polish)

















4TH SUMMER OF SLOTHS (IV LATO LENIWCÓW) , 8-11 August 2013

Until tonight you can visit 4th Summer of Sloths Festival (IV Lato Leniwców in Polish) in Szczepański square, Kraków. You can sit there on a deckchair, listen to live music, eat some international delicacies, drink cider, among other things, and buy some handicraft products. I think HAMSA Hummus & Happiness Israeli Restobar turned out to be the most popular stall, while a stand selling furs in on a sizzling summer day struck me as weirdest. But maybe after all fur is a good way to protect yourself against the heat? I just hope it isn't fur of the festival's sloths... ;)

Festival's facebook page







Tuesday 6 August 2013

PIEROGI FESTIWAL AND SUMMER OF SLOTHS - TWO LAZY FOOD FESTIVALS THIS WEEKEND :)



If you missed the slowfood festival Jemynapolu in July, which I mentioned here, don't worry!  Because this weekend, from Thursday to Sunday (8th to 11th August 2013), Kraków will host two other food and culture festivals.

The first one is XI Festiwal Pierogów (meaning '11th Pierogi Festival' in Polish) in Mały Rynek (a small square behind St. Mary's Church adjacent to the Main Market Square). Pierogi are traditional Polish dumplings with various fillings. They're simply delicious.

More information on the Pierogi Festival (in Polish) can be found here.


The second one is a slowfood and music festival IV Lato Leniwców (meaning '4th Summer of Sloths' in Polish), which will take place in plac Szczepański (Szczepański Square, also quite close to the Main Market Square).
More details (in Polish) and photos here.

Don't miss them! :)

PS. If you want to learn more about traditional Polish cuisine, you can read my short Polish-English food dictionary. :)

Wersja polska
 






Saturday 3 August 2013

TRIBECA U SZOŁAYSKICH - COFFEE IN A DRAWER


TriBeCa in not only a neighbourhood in NYC, but also a chain of cafés in some of the museums in Kraków. My favourite TriBeCa is the one in the Szczepański Square, which has recently become vibrant with life thanks to a new musical fountain and new cafés (such as Charlotte). TriBeCa u Szołayskich (meaning 'TriBeCa in the Szołayski House' in Polish) fits perfectly in with this new, dynamic place.



I usually drop by to have a coffee with my friends or grab a quick lunch. You can sit here either in a beer garden overlooking the Szczepański Square and Pałac Sztuki ('Art Palace' in Polish), or at an inner patio, or in a spacious, cool room. The room has a nice interior, if rather minimalistic. During the day it's very peaceful in there so it can be a good place to work or study if you don't mind the buzz of the café.




A ladder with shelves is loaded with books about art history (in various languages) so while waiting for your orders, you can become an art expert. Especially because waiting for the waiters can be really long... That's why if the waiting becomes interminable, I simply go to the counter and order myself.



I think TriBeCa's biggest advantage is coffee. Some flavoured coffees tend to be a tad too much on the sweet side and that's why I usually choose classics, such as latte (PLN 8-12) or cappuccino (PLN 8-12). But if you aren't afraid of sugar, you should try a frozen mint coffee (PLN 12). The sandwiches and other snacks are also very tasty. During my last visit I had there a delicious grilled baguette with chicken, cheese and lots of veggies (PLN 14). The desserts, however, are a different kettle of fish. Chocolate TriBeCa cake (PLN 12) was very good even though a bit too sweet. But the tiramisu (PLN 11) was one of the strangest dessert I've ever eaten and I don't mean it as a compliment...


While you're in TriBeCa, you should visit one of the two exhibitions housed in the same building, the Szołayski House: 'Forever Young! Poland and it's art around 1900' and 'Szymborska’s Drawer' ('Szuflada Szymborskiej' in Polish). The latter exhibition is not only for free, but it also has an interactive and a bit surreal form. Wisława Szymborska was a very famous Polish poet and the winner of the 1996 Nobel Prize in Literature. And now her belongings, presented in drawers, create cabinet of curiosities. The Szołayski House is a perfect place for an afternoon with art, a poetry and coffee.
See more photos! :)



Addres: Plac Szczepański 9, Kraków