Monday 27 January 2014

WEEKEND IN DUBLIN, PART 2: SEAFOOD AND PUBS

SEAFOOD

Situated on the River Liffey near the Irish Sea, Dublin is full of tasty fish and seafood. The Irish love making songs about their food and the most famous one is "Molly Malone" about a pretty fishmonger selling "cockles and mussels, alive, alive, oh!" Molly has even her own statue in Grafton Street called humorously "The Tart With The Cart" or "The Trollop With The Scallop". 


To try fresh seafood, we went to a quaint seaside town of Howth, which can be reached by DART rail in less than 30 minutes from Dublin's city centre. Having worked up an appetite during a stroll on the pier, we decided to order a seafood platter for two in Deep restaurant recommended by our friend. But because it was a sunny Sunday afternoon, we weren't the only ones wishing to have lunch on the seafront and the restaurant was fully booked. We went resignedly next door to Brass Monkey, where we managed to seize the last free seats at the counter. 


I've got mixed feelings about Brass Monkey. Some dishes were really tasty, especially rich, creamy chowder (fish soup, EUR 6.50), but some were almost inedible, for example extremely sour Thai soup (EUR 5.50). Similarly, the fish platter (EUR 40) contained lovely grilled salmon and fried calamari as well as breaded fish which didn't have any flavour at all. And the waiter was very nice but he tried to cheat us out of 1.50 Euro. I know it isn't a lot of money and he apologized profusely when we pointed out the mistake but still...


Brass Monkey
Address: 12 West Pier, Howth, Dublin

PUBS


Fortunately, Dublin pubs were as great as I'd expected or maybe even better. To shelter from the rain, we went to cosy Peter's Pub near St Stephen's Green. When we asked a friendly bartender for a drink to warm us up, he gave us warm cider with cinnamon sticks and cloves (EUR 3.90) and Irish coffee decorated with the shamrock - the symbol of Ireland (EUR 7.00). Both drinks were delicious and warming. What surprised me in Peter's Pub is the fact that it's a meeting place for everyone: from families with kids, to tourists like ourselves, to the elderly, who enjoyed themselves (and drank ;)) as much as the younger customers.

Peter's Pub
Address: 1 Johnson Place, Dublin 2

IRISH BEERS


The aim of our second outing to the pub was to taste famous Irish beers. When during our trip from the airport I had told the taxi driver that I didn't like Guinness beer, he gave me two pieces of advice. Firstly, Guinness doesn't like to travel so you must drink it as close to the brewery as possible. Secondly, if you don't like its bitter taste, you ask a bartender for some "blackcurrant". But the second tip applies only to women because, according to the driver, drinking beer with juice isn't manly. ;)


When the other night we went to O'Neills Pub near Trinity College, we found out that the taxi driver was absolutely right. Guinness tastes much better in Dublin than in Kraków and if you add some blackcurrant juice it is even more delicious. We also tried some local pale ale charmingly called Galway Hooker (EUR 5.60) and I couldn't resist hot chocolate with Baileys Irish Cream and marshmallows. Yum! :)

O'Neills Bar and Restaurant
Address: 2 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2


After such an amazing weekend filled with lovely food and drinks we didn't really feel like coming back to snowy Kraków. But duty called and the following day we boarded the return flight, carrying with us 5 packages of Irish cheddar and planning to buy Baileys as soon as we land. Slàinte! :)



Saturday 25 January 2014

WEEKEND IN DUBLIN, PART 1: TRADITIONAL IRISH CUISINE

What can you eat and drink in Dublin? It was my first thought when I started preparations for our weekend in Ireland. Of course the trip was also full of cultural activities: admiring Old Masters' paintings in the National Gallery of Ireland, visiting Trinity College or watching “Pride and Prejudice” adaptation at the Gate Theatre. But the culinary aspect was equally important to me. That's why with some help from my Dublin-based friend, Kasia, and an Irish follower of my blog, Gary, I've decided to prepare for you a short summary of the best Dublin goodies.


Most of the traditional Irish dishes consist of potatoes, meat, and vegetables so they are quite rich and hearty. We had our first Irish lunch at Quays Irish Restaurant in a lively neighbourhood of Temple Bar. We found the restaurant by chance but it turned out to be a great choice: the interior was cosy, the food tasty and the service friendly. In fact, all the Irish people we met were really nice and genial. :)


Being so close to Guiness Brewery, we had to try the slow cooked beef and Guinness stew (EUR 10.95, lunch special). It was thick and aromatic, perfect for the rainy weather that greeted us in Dublin.


I also wanted to try boxty, or Irish potato pancakes, served at Quays with dressed leaves and a yummy sauce (EUR 6.95). Boxty turned out to be absolutely delicious – I especially liked the combination of creamy, buttery mashed potatoes, meaty pieces of bacon, and crunchy breadcrumb coating. I think it was the best dish I tried during my whole stay in Dublin.


Unfortunately, fish and chips I ordered as the main course wasn't the best choice (EUR 10.95, lunch special). The chips were very good but I hadn't expected the fish to be so soaked in grease. Now I know why some people pack it in a newspaper... Finally, I managed to eat only the chips with lots and lots of ketchup to hide the oily aftertaste. Well, maybe it was my punishment for ordering an English dish in the country that doesn't really love England? ;)


As to other Irish specialities, such as black pudding (blood sausage) or Skirts and Kidneys, their very names and list of ingredients were enough to put us off. Sorry, Ireland! :)


But we did want to try fresh seafood, which is an important part of Irish cuisine, and to have a beer or two in a tradition Irish pub. So if you want to read about our restaurant adventures in a quaint town of Howth and about the drinking tips from a genuine Dublin taxi driver, please check my blog tomorrow. Stay tuned! :)

Quays Irish Restaurant
Address: 10-12 Temple Bar Square, Dublin 2, Ireland

Wednesday 22 January 2014

DUBLIN, CARNIVAL AND ART – JANUARY ON MY BLOG

Frans Snyders, A Banquet-piece, late 1620s
I was complaining that December was one of the busiest months but I didn't know what January had in store for me: lots of translation projects, taking care of my five-year-old niece, Little My, baking gingerbreads with my friends (something I didn't have time for before Christmas), and on top of that a trip to Dublin. And they say that the beginning of the year is usually uneventful... Fortunately, now I have more time so in the following weeks you can expect new things on my blog.

Frans Snyders, A Banquet-piece, late 1620s

1. First of all, I've changed the blog's background, which I hope is now more readable. What do you think about it? Just to remind you, that's how it looked before the revamp:


2. Apart from a few reviews of some very nice restaurants (such as Zazie) in the pipeline, I will soon post a short account of my weekend break in Dublin. Do you know what the Irish cuisine is famous for? How to hide Guinness bitter aftertaste? Where to eat nice fresh seafood? The answers will be revealed this weekend. :)


3. To keep the good mood, this Sunday (26 Jan 2014) a carnival edition of my favourite food festival in Kraków, Najedzeni Fest!, will take place in Forum Przestrzenie. Here you can read about the festival's autumn edition. Are you going to be there?



4. As promised, this year I'm going to add to my blog a new section on food and culture. I will write about my favourite books, paintings and films which contain some interesting food themes. I already have plenty of ideas but if there's anything special you would like to read about, please let me know. I love your inspirations. :)


Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Peasant Wedding, 1620
5. At the top of the page there's a new tab with the list of the restaurants I've already reviewed. New tabs will be added shortly.

Stay tuned! :)


PS. All the paintings were photographed in the National Gallery of Ireland in Dublin.