Sunday 9 February 2014

ZAKŁADKA (KRAKÓW) – FRENCH CHIC VS. OILY SNAILS


As its Polish name suggests, French restaurant Zakładka food & wine is situated behind a footbridge. More precisely, next to the footbridge connecting Kraków's two historical districts – Kazimierz and Podgórze.


From the beginning, Zakładka enchanted me with its stylish interior which reminds me of my favourite film, “Amélie” (about which I wrote here): red upholstered sofas, an old gramophone, china statuettes of dogs and pigs, black-and-white photos of French stars. It seems elegant and warm at the same time. And noisy - as finding a free table without a prior booking is practically impossible.


While waiting for our dishes, we unexpectedly got quite tasty free starters: a few small pieces of bread, including a warm roll, a piece of pâté and black olive spread served in an egg cup.


Afterwards we were served two huge soup plates. My onion soup (PLN 9) was thick and delicious (much better than the one in Zazie). While mushroom cream ordered by my friend, Mi, (PLN 12) was very aromatic but apparently the cook had been slightly too liberal with salt...


After the starters and soups, we were full up and quite content with our visit so far because, except for the salty mushroom soup, everything was very good. Unfortunately, from that moment everything went downhill.


First of all the snails. Because neither of us was very hungry, we decided to share one portion of snails, just to try how they taste. We thought we had clearly explained our wish to the waitress so we were astonished to see her bring two big plates of snails – one for each of us (PLN 28 each). When we politely pointed out the mistake, the waitress snapped that she had read our order back to us and that we should eat the two portions without any problem. After such a retort, we decided to end the discussion to avoid further unpleasantness.


The snails were served on a nice, decorative plate but it's the only positive thing I can say about them. They were literally swimming in fat which, according to the waitress, was garlic butter with herbs but to me it tasted more like ordinary oil. So I have no idea how the snails themselves tasted because the oily flavour and texture killed all other sensations.  


Secondly, the service. For the first part of our meal (before the snails), the waitress was very nice but than she started behaving in a peculiar way, for example looking at my plate and making remarks whether I had eaten everything from my plate or not. I think there's a fine line between directness and incivility and the waitress was close to crossing it.


So all in all, I have mixed feelings about Zakładka. On the one hand, a charming interior, big portions and delicious onion soup, but on the other – impolite service and snails soaked in fat. And what would you think about such a restaurant?


Address: Józefińska 2, Kraków (Podgórze)