MNISZE CO NIECO – SUNNY AFTERNOON IN TYNIEC

Tyniec is a perfect place for a lazy afternoon in the countryside. The Benedictine abbey in Tyniec is a popular religious and recreation centre on the outskirts of Kraków. Besides church services conducted by the monks, spiritual nourishment can be found in the Museum of the Tyniec Abbey, which houses a rich collection of sacred art. Art lovers can admire the baroque interior of the abbey church, especially an interesting pulpit in the shape of a ship. And if after visiting the abbey you become peckish, you should drop by the nearby restaurant, Mnisze Co Nieco (which means Monks' Smackerel of Something).

The entrance to the restaurant is located in one of the stone gates leading into the abbey courtyard. An austere decor of the two small rooms resembles a refectory: bare brick walls hung with images of saints and monks, wooden tables without tablecloths and quite uncomfortable benches without backs. Shelves on the walls are decorated with preserves in jars and clay bottles with mead.

 

The names of the dishes also reflect the monastic character of the restaurant: St Placid's żurek (sour rye soup), Father Abbot's delicacy or St Marta's chocolate cake with cherry preserve. We ordered nuns' pierogi (dumplings, PLN 12) and Oblates' small feast, i.e. placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes) with sour cream (PLN 12). Pierogi were delicious, especially the ones with sauerkraut and forest mushrooms. Placki ziemniaczane were also good but I had an impression that the oil in which they were fried wasn't quite fresh. Nevertheless, the dishes served in the restaurant agreed with my stomach, which is a sign of a good quality of the food.

 

Tyniec can be reached by car or bus, but the most pleasant way to get there is a bike path along the Vistula river. At sunny weekends, the path is packed with bikers, skaters and strollers, enjoying beautiful views and fresh air. In the summer, you can also travel to the abbey by water bus or kayak. Tyniec and Misze Co Nieco are an excellent destination for a weekend with nature, culture and good food.

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Address: ul. Benedyktyńska 37, Tyniec, Kraków
Website: www.benedicite.pl

AQUARIUS – SEA ADVENTURE

I've been always fascinated by the life at sea: water, wind, and fresh fish. Aquarius Restaurant, located on a barge moored on the Vistula River near the Wawel Castle, can be a substitute for a sea adventure.

After walking along the rickety gangway and entering the barge, you can see some maritime elements: portholes, a fish aquarium and chairs with rope backs (alas, not very comfortable). The pleasant music playing in the background ranges from chillout to pop, but I think that shanties would be more suitable for the boat restaurant. Tables near the windows give a lovely view of the river and the Wawel Hill.

Inspired by the restaurant’s atmosphere, I ordered fish soup (PLN 18), which unfortunately turned out to be very salty. However, żurek (sour rye soup) served with a boiled egg (PLN 11), was very nutritious and tasty. Last year, I ordered here fried trout, which was really delicious, so it's a pity that it has disappeared from the menu. Especially that at the moment the restaurant offers very few fish dishes. 

I feel that since last year the quality of food has lowered while the prices have risen. Fortunately, the fine view and pleasant atmosphere haven't changed. The restaurant is open all year and in the summer there are additional tables on the upper deck. The staff are very obliging. Aquarius is a good place for an unusual date or for a break during a stroll along the Vistula River. But it's too bad that the restaurant doesn't offer more fish dishes at reasonable prices so that you could feel the real taste of the sea adventure.

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Address: bulwar Czerwieński, the Vistula River between the Wawel Hill and most Dębnicki (Dębnicki Bridge)

Website: aquariuskrakow.pl

MLECZARNIA x 2

A lot of people know the café/pub Mleczarnia (which means “dairy” in Polish) but not everybody realizes that actually there are two Mleczarnias: one in Kraków and one in Wrocław. Both cafés have old-fashioned décor and mysterious atmosphere. The walls are hung with black-and-white photographs dating back to our great-grandparents' time. Tables are covered with lace tablecloths and the furniture looks as if it had just been found in the attic. In the evenings, candles are the only source of light, which on the one hand creates a romantic atmosphere, but on the other provides extra excitement while walking on the uneven floor.

Both Mleczarnias have similar food and beverages on the menu but there are some territorial differences. As the name indicates, the cafés specialize in milk drinks: cocoa, hot chocolate and various types of coffee. Alcoholic drinks are also delicious, especially mojito and Słodkie Mle (with chocolate flavoured liqueur). If you're hungry, you can order toasts, soups or homemade cakes, while the Wrocław Mleczarnia offers also hearty breakfasts (served between 8.00 am and 1.00 pm, PLN 15.00-18.00 for a breakfasts set). Both cafés are self-service.

Despite many similarities, each Mleczarnia has a slightly different character. Mleczarnia in Kraków is tucked away in one of the side streets of the Jewish quarter, Kazimierz. Apparently this place once housed a real dairy, which gave name to the pub. In winter, Mleczarnia is peaceful in cosy, while in summer it throbs with life thanks to a spacious beer garden across the street. In the beer garden, you can order not only most of the drinks served in the café (except for spirits), but also freshly squeezed fruit juices. A huge tree provides a leafy shade, while fresh flowers in milk cans bring to mind holidays in the countryside.

Mleczarnia in Wrocław, which is much bigger than the one in Kraków, consists of two rooms on the ground floor and a large smoking room in the basement (open from 5.00 pm). A beer garden is located in the courtyard of a newly renovated Synagogue, but it has much less charm than the garden in Krakow. Fortunately, the interior of the Wrocław Mleczarnia compensates for imperfections of its beer garden.

Both Mleczarnias are perfect venues for a date or a meeting with friends. Thanks to the special atmosphere and delicious coffee, I am a regular guest at the two cafes. I always bring my friends along and so far they all have succumbed to the alluring magic of Mleczarnias.

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Address:

ul. Rabina Bera Meiselsa 20, Kraków

ul. Pawła Włodkowica 5, Wrocław

Website: mle.pl

MAMMA MIA IN THE ITALIAN STYLE

I discovered Mamma Mia, a cosy Italian trattoria, thanks to my friends J.&J., who go there to celebrate important events in their lives. A nice atmosphere, friendly stuff and Italian dishes at affordable prices make it a perfect place for a bit more festive dinner or date.

The restaurant consists of a front room (access from Karmelicka Street) and main room (access from the courtyard). The main room is not only larger but also more elegant and more pleasing to the eye. The bare, brick walls are decorated with stylish photos from Italy, while the wood-fired pizza oven warms up the atmosphere (both literally and figuratively). A bookcase filled with wine bottles displays available wines. Unfortunately, the impression of comfort and elegance is spoilt a little by metal pipes on the ceiling and greyish tablecloths on the tables.

Of all the dishes I have tried at Mamma Mia, pizza is by far the best. Pizza Napoli (PLN 25.50) had a thin, crisp base and fresh, tasty toppings. Also a slightly burnt calzone (PLN 24), a turnover of pizza dough filled with vegetables, meat, or cheese, turned out to be very tasty.

 

Once, I decided to try something unusual for dessert so I ordered ricotta cheesecake in fig sauce with pine nuts (PLN 9.50). It did taste unusual... Since then I have always opted for something more traditional, like tiramisu or panna cotta.

Thanks to the friendly atmosphere, Mamma Mia is a perfect restaurant for a family dinner (high chairs are available). And if you choose one of the snug corners, you can feel as if you were on a romantic date in Italy. Because Mamma Mia is one of the most popular Italian restaurants in Kraków, it's advisable to book a table in advance.

 

Address: ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków

Website: www.mammamia.net.pl

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DYNIA RESTO BAR – THE SECRET GARDEN

I usually stop by Dynia (which means “pumpkin” in Polish) for a coffee and my favourite pumpkin soup. Even though Dynia is situated nearby the noisy Main Market Square, it is an out-of-the-way place where you can completely chill out. Especially in the lovely summer garden nestled at the rear of old tenement houses.

Dynia offers mostly healthy, vegetable dishes, but there is also quite a lot on the menu for carnivores. I usually order pumpkin cream soup or tomato cream soup with feta cheese (PLN 7.50 for a bowl). I also recommend pasta, especially spaghetti with goat cheese, aubergine, arugula and sun-dried tomatoes (PLN 21.90). If you have a sweet tooth, you can order a piece of cake or another dessert, such as apple crumble (PLN 9.90).

The waiters and waitresses in Dynia are very friendly but they sometimes keep you waiting for too long. Therefore, if you are in a hurry, you can walk over to the buffet and order or pay directly at the till. Dynia is a child-friendly restaurant, which provides not only special kids menu and high chairs, but also colouring books and crayons.

The inner garden is a great spot for lunch with friends during the day, while at summer night it changes into a perfect scenery for a romantic date. The garden's magical atmosphere is highlighted by glowing balls hidden among ferns. And when it rains, you can snuggle under a large umbrella and get warm with mulled beer or hot chocolate with rum.

Address: 20 Krupnicza Street, Kraków
Website: dynia.krakow.pl

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KOLANKO No 6 – PANCAKES WITH AN AMBIENCE

Kolanko No 6 is one of my favourite pubs and restaurants in Kraków. At first, I was intrigued by Kolanko's name, which means in Polish either “a small knee” or “a plumbing elbow.” As I later found out, the name alludes not to human anatomy (which could be a bit macabre...) but to the fact that this place used to house a plumbing shop.

Out of curiosity, I went to the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz to check Kolanko out and I was pleasantly surprised. It is a cosy restaurant in which time passes at a leisurely pace. Also for the waiters and waitresses, who take their good time to serve customers. Therefore, you should come here only when you feel like spending a lazy afternoon or evening, without fretting about the passage of time.

In winter, it's nice to lounge about by candlelight on the covered verandah with mood music in the background. In summer, you will be tempted to sit on a patio, where you can chill out and forget about hot weather and the hubbub of the street outside.

Besides warm ambience, Kolanko offers delicious pancakes with unusual fillings, such as fried livers or blood sausage (kaszanka), but there are also more conventional flavours, e.g. vegetables or spinach. I particularly like pancakes with Russian filling (cottage cheese, mashed potatoes and onion) and sweet pancakes with vanilla custard (budyń) and fruit. You can order any number of pancakes and each can have a different filling. One pancake costs around PLN 6-8.

Kolanko offers also a wide range of leaf teas, drinks and desserts, including hot apple pie with ice cream. As a Jane Austen's fan, I had to try a Sense and Sensibility (Rozważna and Romantyczna) drink, which turned out to be very tasty but not excessively large (PLN 6,5 for approx. 170 ml).

Kolanko is a great venue for various occasions: a romantic date (intimate atmosphere created by candlelight), a get-together with friends (in summer, smoking is permitted on the patio) or a family dinner (high chairs are available for children). It is a perfect restaurant for those who like quaint décor and unusual dishes.

Address: ul. Józefa 17, Kraków
Website: www.kolanko.net

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FUSSY IN KRAKÓW

Kraków is famous for its charming restaurants and cafés. They seem to compete with each other in various categories: the most unusual name  (Pierwszy lokal na Stolarskiej po lewej stronie, idąc od Małego Rynku [The First Pub in Stolarska Street on Your Left as You Walk from Maly Rynek], Zaraz wracam [Be Right Back] or Królicze Oczy [Rabbit's Eyes], to mention just a few), the most unusual decor (carriages in Cherubino, tables hidden in wardrobes in Cafe Szafe) or the most unusual names of the dishes (in this category, my favourite is Fabryka Pizzy, which serves Tomato's Son, Good Morning Dracula, and The Age of Bacon).

In Kraków, you can find a place to suit every budget and occasion, but a vast array of  restaurants and pubs can be overhelming. That's why I've decided to write this blog. I love to eat out, to try out new dishes and to feel the ambience of restaurant and cafés. Even though I'm fussy, I always try to find something positive in the places I visit. Therefore, this blog is dedicated to the restaurants, cafés and pubs which I like and which I want to recommend to others.

Pierwszy lokal na Stolarskiej po lewej stronie idąc od Małego Rynku

Because eating out can be expensive, I often buy special offers advertised on groupon, GoDealla and similar websites. Moreover, I've bought Karta na Plus, which offers a lot of discounts in Kraków and around  (www.kartanaplus.pl).

Cafe Ważka

I hope this blog will inspire you to go out and find out which restaurant or café in Kraków is your favourite. 

The Polish version of my blog can be found here: Wybreda w Krakowie

You can find more photos on facebook: Fussy on facebook

Polakowski