MY ROMAN HOLIDAY, PART 1: BAROQUE VS. PIZZA

Here's the first part of my culinary and cultural adventures in Rome. 

The second part is available here. Enjoy! :)

This April I went for the first time to Rome. I came, I saw... I fell in love. Rome turned out to be even more beautiful and charming than I'd expected. Here are a few things I discovered during my Roman holiday.

In Rome, I could live solely on art. Before the trip, I had an ambitious plan to go to as many restaurants and cafés as possible. But then I was so engrossed in visiting Baroque churches and squares that I didn't feel hungry at all. Well, almost at all...

When I finally managed to tear myself away from the art battle between two Baroque giants: Bernini and Borromini, I went for dinner to Gallo Matto (which means 'Crazy Rooster' in Italian) near the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. The restaurant's interior looks as if it was really designed by a crazy chicken but the food was quite nice.

Out of all the dishes that turned up on our table, I especially liked my ravioli with ricotta cheese. As the atmosphere in the restaurant was very casual (not to say familiar), I could personally congratulate the chef, who was sitting at a nearby table, laughing out loud and gesticulating wildly. Is there anything more stereotypically Italian? :)

In Gallo Matto, I found out for myself that the Italians love women and cheese. And especially the women who like cheese. When I told the waiter that “I love ricotta,” he immediately replied, “And I love you!” Not sure how he would react, I decided to conceal from him the fact that I also like mozzarella and pecorino romano. ;)

My biggest concern about Rome was that the city would be crowded with wild tourists. There were indeed a lot of people but only at the most popular sites. Like lemmings, people thronged around Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon but as soon as I turned into one of the side streets, I was almost totally alone. In one of such quite streets in the vicinity of Piazza Navona, we discovered a pizzeria Il Corallo.

My friends were surprised that a Roman pizza is flat as a pancake and doesn't resemble the dishes served in Polish restaurants. But I knew what to expect so I ate with a great pleasure a part of the pizza and even focaccia – pizza crust without any toppings, eaten with loads of olive oil. The food in Il Corallo was fresh and delicious (even the artichoke was quite edible) and the waiters and the chef (in the photo) – extremely friendly. But fortunately, this time no one professed his love for me. ;)

To be continued...

More photos

Gallo Matto, Via Cavour 107, Rome, Italy, www

Pizzeria Il Corallo, Via del Corallo 10/11, 00188 Rome, Italy, www

MIĘTA RESTO BAR - IN MINT CONDITION

The restaurants and cafes I visit can be divided into three categories. Ones that I visit once and decide never to set my foot in them again - I don't feel like writing about them because I don't want to turn into Gordon Ramsay. ;) Ones that I visit once or twice and, though I like them, I don't become a regular customer. And ones that I visit as often as time and money allows.

Mięta Resto Bar (meaning spearmint in Polish) definitely belongs to the last category. This Mediterranean restaurant is located almost exactly opposite Dynia, which I described here. But while I go to Dynia for a quick coffee or a chat with friends, Mięta is usually reserved for our family celebrations.

Mięta drew my attention even before it was opened. A few years ago on my way to the library in Rajska Street, I was wondering what will open in the old building with a beautiful columned porch. I watched with interest how the house was being renovated, paying special attention to mint leaves painted on the garden gate. No wonder I was one of the first customers as soon as the restaurant opened.

 

At first the food was good but not outstanding so we patronized Mięta mainly due to its atmosphere created by old furniture and appetizing photos on the walls. Fortunately, after some time the quality of the food improved so now we go there tempted by various Mediterranean delicacies. My favourite dish are dumplings with pear and blue cheese washed down with limoncello (Italian lemon liqueur), while my friend Jul has developed a taste for wraps with chicken. Other dishes are (usually) also very tasty.

Mięta is a perfect place for a small party, meeting with friends or romantic date. In the summer you can sit in an ambient beer garden with a view of a historic Mehoffer House. Most of the dishes served in the restaurant are garnished with a sprig of the eponymous mint, which was a symbol of hospitality in ancient Greece. It may be situated in an old house, but Mięta is definitely in mint condition. ;)

Want to see more photos? Click here!
Wersja polska 

Address: ul. Krupnicza 19a, Kraków

Website: www.mietarestobar.pl

MAMMA MIA IN THE ITALIAN STYLE

I discovered Mamma Mia, a cosy Italian trattoria, thanks to my friends J.&J., who go there to celebrate important events in their lives. A nice atmosphere, friendly stuff and Italian dishes at affordable prices make it a perfect place for a bit more festive dinner or date.

The restaurant consists of a front room (access from Karmelicka Street) and main room (access from the courtyard). The main room is not only larger but also more elegant and more pleasing to the eye. The bare, brick walls are decorated with stylish photos from Italy, while the wood-fired pizza oven warms up the atmosphere (both literally and figuratively). A bookcase filled with wine bottles displays available wines. Unfortunately, the impression of comfort and elegance is spoilt a little by metal pipes on the ceiling and greyish tablecloths on the tables.

Of all the dishes I have tried at Mamma Mia, pizza is by far the best. Pizza Napoli (PLN 25.50) had a thin, crisp base and fresh, tasty toppings. Also a slightly burnt calzone (PLN 24), a turnover of pizza dough filled with vegetables, meat, or cheese, turned out to be very tasty.

 

Once, I decided to try something unusual for dessert so I ordered ricotta cheesecake in fig sauce with pine nuts (PLN 9.50). It did taste unusual... Since then I have always opted for something more traditional, like tiramisu or panna cotta.

Thanks to the friendly atmosphere, Mamma Mia is a perfect restaurant for a family dinner (high chairs are available). And if you choose one of the snug corners, you can feel as if you were on a romantic date in Italy. Because Mamma Mia is one of the most popular Italian restaurants in Kraków, it's advisable to book a table in advance.

 

Address: ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków

Website: www.mammamia.net.pl

wersja polska