KARMNIK (KRAKÓW) – FEELS LIKE HOME

Where do you usually buy food? As I mentioned in the post about Krakowskim Targiem Festival, I love traditional markets, especially Plac na Stawach in Kraków (near Cracovia Stadium). There are my favourite, friendly greengrocers, a butcher's shop with always fresh meat, a stall selling home-made cottage cheeses and butter, and much more. What's more, everyone, both vendors and buyers, are much friendlier than in your usual supermarket.

Famished after the shopping spree, we usually go for lunch to nearby Karmnik restaurant (karmnik means 'bird feeder' in Polish), where the atmosphere is even more welcoming than at Plac na Stawach. The restaurant is run by one family who oversee all the details: from serving the guests, to preparing the dishes, to changing decorations according to the season.

The interior is small but neat and cosy. In the photos you can see the winter look dominated by silvers and whites with splashes of red and green. I especially like the quaint, yellowed pages from an old cookery book hung on the walls. I can't wait to see what this artistically gifted family will prepare for the spring season. :)

Menu changes daily but you can always order some nutritious soups (PLN 6-8), meat with potatoes and salad (PLN 15-20) and crunchy pancakes (PLN 9-11 for 2 pancakes). Sometimes there are also delicious savoury tarts (about PLN 11 a piece), which are a particular favourite of mine. Pasta, such as penne with chicken and spinach (PLN 16), is also very good.

Portions, especially of the meat dishes, are really large: the cutlet is as big as the plate, there's a heap of potatoes and four different salads served on a separate plate. That's why D. and I often share one portion for two. Our favourite dishes are pork breaded cutlet (kotlet schabowy, PLN 15 zł) and grilled chicken breast with mozzarella and spinach (PLN 16). The latter is usually quite salty but as each portion is prepared individually for every client, so you can always ask for less salt on your meat.

All the dishes are really fresh and tasty, almost like home-made. Not all of them were to my liking, for example onion soup, which didn't taste at all like onion, but I think it's a matter of taste because D. really liked it. Drinks include delicious fruit juice called kompot in Polish (PLN 3), coffee and tea, but the only thing lacking in Karmnik is desserts. I think home-made cake would be a perfect complement to the lovely lunch.  

Karmnik is probably the restaurant I visit most often in Kraków – mainly because of the delicious food, friendly ambiance and very reasonable prices. You can have here both breakfast and lunch or you can just drop by to drink some warming tea with raspberry juice. I recommend this restaurant to everyone who likes Polish home-made food and warm, informal atmosphere. You can also come here with your kids or dog – everyone will be welcome. :)


Pros: tasty food, big portions, nice interior
Cons: wait time (dishes are prepared only after an order has been placed), some dishes are too salty, no desserts

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Address: Senatorska 13, Kraków (Zwierzyniec)

Website: restauracjakarmnik.pl 

Daily menu on facebook (in Polish): 

pl-pl.facebook.com/RestauracjaKarmnik

ZAZIE BISTRO – THE MAGIC OF FRENCH FOOD

Zazie, a French bistro in Cracow's Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, was on many occasions recommended to me by my three friends, incidentally, all of whom are called Michał. Now I wonder if Zazie is some kind of a secret meeting place for Michałs who like French cuisine. ;)

After all their praises, I expected something amazing so I was a little disappointed to find the interior so... ordinary. Even though one of the walls is covered with a large black and white photo of the Eiffel Tower and there is also a cast-iron lamppost bringing to mind Narnia, the whole interior didn't make a striking impression on me and the metal chairs turned out to be extremely uncomfortable. Luckily, friendly waitresses and delicious food compensated for all the shortcomings in aesthetics and comfort.

When I saw a long menu, I didn't know what to choose. I was especially tempted by escargot à la Bourguignonne (snails) but decided to try it next time. Finally, I ordered delicate foie gras with a sweet potato pancake and kohlrabi with port wine (PLN 22). I was slightly apprehensive about this dish but this unusual combination of the ingredients proved to be exceptionally tasty. I think that only a very talented (and brave) chef could have successfully carried out such a culinary experiment. Chapeau bas! :)

 I usually can't resists French onion soup if I spot it in a menu and this time was no exception. The onion soup in Zazie (PLN 9) was quite tasty, even though it was a far cry from the one I ate in La Taverne de l'Arbre Sec in Paris. Nevertheless, it was one of the best onion soups in Kraków.

My friend Gosia ordered very nice Alsatian quiche with bacon, brie, apple, and red onion (PLN 11 / a piece). For dessert we had a pear cooked in white wine served with almond sauce (PLN 11). The sauce was delicious but the pear itself was so sweet and overcooked that it was almost tasteless, which is a pity because the dish has great potential.

The interior is so neutral and the food so delicious that Zazie seems to be a perfect venue for practically every occasion: from a family dinner with kids and the dog, to a meeting with friends, to a romantic date. However, you should book a table in advance because the restaurant is often fully booked – which, taking into account their excellent French food, comes as no surprise. :)

Address: Józefa 34, Kraków (Kazimierz)

Website: www.zaziebistro.pl

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PS. And for dessert a French singer Zaz, whose name alwaysreminds me of Zazie. :)

RODZINKA CAFE - FOR YOUNG AND OLD

 

A cold, cloudy afternoon. My bored niece called Little My is sitting on a sofa, demanding cake and children's games. Things aren't looking good. It seems that the only solution is to find a place which will provide her not only with sweets but also with entertainment suitable for a four-year-old girl. After a quick search on the Internet, I find Rodzinka Cafe (Family Cafe). We put on our warm jackets and set off on a mission.

 

When we arrive, it turns out that Rodzinka Cafe is something between a cafe and a kindergarten playroom. Little My immediately throws herself into a whirl of play. First, she enthusiastically plays with a wooden railway, demolishing the whole wooden city. Luckily, there are no fatalities. After a few moments she turns her attention to stuffed animals and then to colouring books and jigsaw puzzles. But a rocking horse with a real saddle with stirrups becomes her favourite. In the meantime, we play a family game called "Where is the frog?". Obviously Little My wins.

 

We are so engrossed in the games that we forget to take pictures of food, which is a pity as the food was really nice. Little My drinks thick cocoa and sneaks my home-made fruit cake. I have to settle for fresh apple juice and the leftovers of the cake. The only thing we are not delighted with are cream rolls ordered by My.

Full and happy, we get ready to head home. We say goodbye to the nice waitress and the lonely rocking horse. Putting on our hats and scarves, we step from the warm, cheerful cafe onto the freezing Floriańska Street. Lyttle My says she can't wait to visit Rodzinka Cafe again. :)

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Website: www.rodzinkacafe.pl

Address: ul. Floriańska 15, Kraków

TROUT IN SCORPION - MEMORY OF SUMMER

At summer weekends when the heat in the city became unbearable, we often drove to Niepolomice Forest (Puszcza Niepołomicka in Polish). There under the trees, which probably still remember hunting trips of Polish kings of yore, we strolled through the forest, enjoying the peace and quiet. The outdoor exercise sharpened our appetites so on our way back to Kraków we usually stopped by a restaurant Skorpion in the village called Grodkowice.

The name Skorpion (scorpion) called to my mind an image of a dim den patronized by Harley riders in leather jackets, so I was really surprised by a kitschy, salmon pink interior in the Carrington style. Fortunately there were a few wooden tables outside, which were more to our liking. In front of the restaurant bushes and plants standing in flowerpots create a picnic atmosphere. There's even a small pond with a wooden bridge and a feeble fountain.

My favourite dish is fried trout. Fresh and crispy, it was delicious every time we tried it in Skorpion. Unfortunately it can't be said about all the dishes served in the restaurant. For example a pork cutlet tasted very good, almost as if it was home-made, but potato pancakes (placki ziemniaczane) with spicy goulash were served cold and over-salted. After bringing this to the waiter's attention, we received a new portion, which was just over-salted... Moreover, chips tasted as if they had been friend in old oil, so fresh boiled potatoes turned out to be a much better choice. Luckily, fresh vegetable salads helped to kill the taste of the less palatable dishes.

Skorpion is a nice place for a family lunch in the countryside. You can bring your dog, who shouldn't be in anyone's way in the picnic table area. The main attraction for children is the little bridge and a wooden swing, while peaceful moments away from the city and delicious fried trout can appeal to adults. I'm glad the season for fried trout and walks through Niepolomice Forest is drawing nearer. :)

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Website: www.restauracja-skorpion.pl 
Address: Grodkowice 107, 32-015, Lesser Poland Voivodeship, Wieliczka County, Kłaj district

MAMMA MIA IN THE ITALIAN STYLE

I discovered Mamma Mia, a cosy Italian trattoria, thanks to my friends J.&J., who go there to celebrate important events in their lives. A nice atmosphere, friendly stuff and Italian dishes at affordable prices make it a perfect place for a bit more festive dinner or date.

The restaurant consists of a front room (access from Karmelicka Street) and main room (access from the courtyard). The main room is not only larger but also more elegant and more pleasing to the eye. The bare, brick walls are decorated with stylish photos from Italy, while the wood-fired pizza oven warms up the atmosphere (both literally and figuratively). A bookcase filled with wine bottles displays available wines. Unfortunately, the impression of comfort and elegance is spoilt a little by metal pipes on the ceiling and greyish tablecloths on the tables.

Of all the dishes I have tried at Mamma Mia, pizza is by far the best. Pizza Napoli (PLN 25.50) had a thin, crisp base and fresh, tasty toppings. Also a slightly burnt calzone (PLN 24), a turnover of pizza dough filled with vegetables, meat, or cheese, turned out to be very tasty.

 

Once, I decided to try something unusual for dessert so I ordered ricotta cheesecake in fig sauce with pine nuts (PLN 9.50). It did taste unusual... Since then I have always opted for something more traditional, like tiramisu or panna cotta.

Thanks to the friendly atmosphere, Mamma Mia is a perfect restaurant for a family dinner (high chairs are available). And if you choose one of the snug corners, you can feel as if you were on a romantic date in Italy. Because Mamma Mia is one of the most popular Italian restaurants in Kraków, it's advisable to book a table in advance.

 

Address: ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków

Website: www.mammamia.net.pl

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DYNIA RESTO BAR – THE SECRET GARDEN

I usually stop by Dynia (which means “pumpkin” in Polish) for a coffee and my favourite pumpkin soup. Even though Dynia is situated nearby the noisy Main Market Square, it is an out-of-the-way place where you can completely chill out. Especially in the lovely summer garden nestled at the rear of old tenement houses.

Dynia offers mostly healthy, vegetable dishes, but there is also quite a lot on the menu for carnivores. I usually order pumpkin cream soup or tomato cream soup with feta cheese (PLN 7.50 for a bowl). I also recommend pasta, especially spaghetti with goat cheese, aubergine, arugula and sun-dried tomatoes (PLN 21.90). If you have a sweet tooth, you can order a piece of cake or another dessert, such as apple crumble (PLN 9.90).

The waiters and waitresses in Dynia are very friendly but they sometimes keep you waiting for too long. Therefore, if you are in a hurry, you can walk over to the buffet and order or pay directly at the till. Dynia is a child-friendly restaurant, which provides not only special kids menu and high chairs, but also colouring books and crayons.

The inner garden is a great spot for lunch with friends during the day, while at summer night it changes into a perfect scenery for a romantic date. The garden's magical atmosphere is highlighted by glowing balls hidden among ferns. And when it rains, you can snuggle under a large umbrella and get warm with mulled beer or hot chocolate with rum.

Address: 20 Krupnicza Street, Kraków
Website: dynia.krakow.pl

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KOLANKO No 6 – PANCAKES WITH AN AMBIENCE

Kolanko No 6 is one of my favourite pubs and restaurants in Kraków. At first, I was intrigued by Kolanko's name, which means in Polish either “a small knee” or “a plumbing elbow.” As I later found out, the name alludes not to human anatomy (which could be a bit macabre...) but to the fact that this place used to house a plumbing shop.

Out of curiosity, I went to the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz to check Kolanko out and I was pleasantly surprised. It is a cosy restaurant in which time passes at a leisurely pace. Also for the waiters and waitresses, who take their good time to serve customers. Therefore, you should come here only when you feel like spending a lazy afternoon or evening, without fretting about the passage of time.

In winter, it's nice to lounge about by candlelight on the covered verandah with mood music in the background. In summer, you will be tempted to sit on a patio, where you can chill out and forget about hot weather and the hubbub of the street outside.

Besides warm ambience, Kolanko offers delicious pancakes with unusual fillings, such as fried livers or blood sausage (kaszanka), but there are also more conventional flavours, e.g. vegetables or spinach. I particularly like pancakes with Russian filling (cottage cheese, mashed potatoes and onion) and sweet pancakes with vanilla custard (budyń) and fruit. You can order any number of pancakes and each can have a different filling. One pancake costs around PLN 6-8.

Kolanko offers also a wide range of leaf teas, drinks and desserts, including hot apple pie with ice cream. As a Jane Austen's fan, I had to try a Sense and Sensibility (Rozważna and Romantyczna) drink, which turned out to be very tasty but not excessively large (PLN 6,5 for approx. 170 ml).

Kolanko is a great venue for various occasions: a romantic date (intimate atmosphere created by candlelight), a get-together with friends (in summer, smoking is permitted on the patio) or a family dinner (high chairs are available for children). It is a perfect restaurant for those who like quaint décor and unusual dishes.

Address: ul. Józefa 17, Kraków
Website: www.kolanko.net

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