BEST FRENCH RESTAURANTS IN KRAKÓW

What country do you associate with love? For me, it's definitely France – French culture, French language and most of all, French food. That's why before upcoming Valentine's Day I've prepared for you my subjective ranking of the best French restaurants in Kraków. When you click on the subheadings, you'll be able to read full reviews of each of the restaurants. Cracovie, je t'aime! :)

4. ZAKŁADKA (KRAKÓW) – FRENCH CHIC VS. OILY SNAILS

Pros: a tasteful interior inspired by the film “Amélie,” nice, free snack before the meal, delicious onion soup

Cons: ill-mannered service, fried snails soaked in fat

Address: Józefińska 2, Kraków (Podgórze)

Website: http://zakladkabistro.pl/

3. LA PETITE FRANCE – ALMOST LIKE PARIS

Pros: tasty, seasonal salads, delicious fondant au chocolat (cake filled with melted chocolate), a small shop with French specialities

Cons: stark interior, small portions, mediocre coffee

Address: św. Tomasza 25, Kraków (Old Town)

Website: www.lapetitefrance.pl

2. CHARLOTTE IN KRAKÓW - FRENCH DELICACIES

Pros: breakfast served until midnight, delicious sandwiches, lovely coffee

Cons: bread in croque-monsieur wasn't very crunchy, the restaurant can get sometimes crowded

Address: Plac Szczepański, Kraków (Old Town)

Website: www.bistrocharlotte.com

1. ZAZIE BISTRO – THE MAGIC OF FRENCH FOOD

Pros: delicious foie gras, nice service, very good quiche

Cons: uncomfortable chairs, mediocre onion soup

Address: Józefa 34, Kraków (Kazimierz)

Website: www.zaziebistro.pl

Please note that all of the above restaurants are very popular so you should book a table in advance, especially on the Valentine's Day! :)

But if you're staying at home that night, you can watch one of my most beloved films, “Amélie,” and read my post about French food in this film: FILM AMÉLIE – HOW FOOD CONNECTS KIND PEOPLE.

And for dessert, one of my favourite French songs about love. It's neither Edith Piaf nor Jacques Brel (even though I adore them as well) – but controversial Carla Bruni. Hope you'll enjoy her sexy voice! :)

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ZAKŁADKA (KRAKÓW) – FRENCH CHIC VS. OILY SNAILS

As its Polish name suggests, French restaurant Zakładka food & wine is situated behind a footbridge. More precisely, next to the footbridge connecting Kraków's two historical districts – Kazimierz and Podgórze.

From the beginning, Zakładka enchanted me with its stylish interior which reminds me of my favourite film, “Amélie” (about which I wrote here): red upholstered sofas, an old gramophone, china statuettes of dogs and pigs, black-and-white photos of French stars. It seems elegant and warm at the same time. And noisy - as finding a free table without a prior booking is practically impossible.

While waiting for our dishes, we unexpectedly got quite tasty free starters: a few small pieces of bread, including a warm roll, a piece of pâté and black olive spread served in an egg cup.

Afterwards we were served two huge soup plates. My onion soup (PLN 9) was thick and delicious (much better than the one in Zazie). While mushroom cream ordered by my friend, Mi, (PLN 12) was very aromatic but apparently the cook had been slightly too liberal with salt...

After the starters and soups, we were full up and quite content with our visit so far because, except for the salty mushroom soup, everything was very good. Unfortunately, from that moment everything went downhill.

First of all the snails. Because neither of us was very hungry, we decided to share one portion of snails, just to try how they taste. We thought we had clearly explained our wish to the waitress so we were astonished to see her bring two big plates of snails – one for each of us (PLN 28 each). When we politely pointed out the mistake, the waitress snapped that she had read our order back to us and that we should eat the two portions without any problem. After such a retort, we decided to end the discussion to avoid further unpleasantness.

The snails were served on a nice, decorative plate but it's the only positive thing I can say about them. They were literally swimming in fat which, according to the waitress, was garlic butter with herbs but to me it tasted more like ordinary oil. So I have no idea how the snails themselves tasted because the oily flavour and texture killed all other sensations.  

Secondly, the service. For the first part of our meal (before the snails), the waitress was very nice but than she started behaving in a peculiar way, for example looking at my plate and making remarks whether I had eaten everything from my plate or not. I think there's a fine line between directness and incivility and the waitress was close to crossing it.

So all in all, I have mixed feelings about Zakładka. On the one hand, a charming interior, big portions and delicious onion soup, but on the other – impolite service and snails soaked in fat. And what would you think about such a restaurant?

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Address: Józefińska 2, Kraków (Podgórze)

Website: http://zakladkabistro.pl/

FILM AMÉLIE – HOW FOOD CONNECTS KIND PEOPLE

Welcome to the first part of my new series: food in art and literature. I'd like to start with "Amélie" – my favourite film about love, loneliness and, of course, food.

I'm sure you all remember the famous food scenes, such as Amélie's delight in cracking crème brûlée or the way she ate raspberries off her fingertips. Actually, the topic is so vast that one could write a whole book about food and drink in this film. But this time I've decided to focus only on how food helps the characters (especially the nice ones) connect with others, proving that Julia Child was right – "People who love to eat are always the best people".

Eating in France is a form of a social ritual. Friends and families gather around the table, munching at French delicacies, sipping wine and enjoying each other's company for hours on end. This social function is visible in the film in the café where Amélie works as a waitress. In Des 2 Moulins café on Montmartre in Paris, patrons drink kir (white wine with crème de cassis, or blackcurrant liqueur) and mauresque (anise–flavored liqueur called pastis mixed with almond syrup) and have long discussions about love, life, and latest gossip.

In stark contrast to this lively place, there is a melancholic scene of Amélie cooking pasta only for herself. She looks out of the window and notices her neighbour, 'The Glass Man', who also has dinner in absolute solitude. Fortunately, after a while the two become friends and spend time together eating speculoos (Dutch ginger biscuits) dipped in mulled wine. (By the way, it seems to be a peculiar choice of snacks for a hot summer, don't you think? ;))

The Glass Man also connects people over a meal in another, more metaphorical way – each year he paints a copy of Renoir's “Luncheon of the Boating Party” and every time he paints different dishes on the table. “They look quite happy there”, says Amélie. “They should be”, he replies. “This year they had hare with morels. And waffles with jam for the children”. :)

Luncheon of the Boating Party, Renoir, 1880-1881, source: wikipedia  

Love for food also helps some of the characters win over new friends, especially in the case of a mentally challenged Lucien. Working for the greengrocer, Lucien treats every fruit and vegetable like a precious treasure that should be handled with respect and gentleness. Amélie, who herself appreciates small pleasures, such as plunging her hand deep into a sack of grain, understands his childlike need to take delight in everyday life. That's why there's a thread of understanding between these two characters, both of whom dislike Lucien's surly, philistine boss, Mr. Collignon.

Similar joie de vivre (and joie de manger) characterizes Dominique Bretodeau, a man who used to live in the same house as Amélie. Every week Bretodeau buys a fresh chicken at the market, roasts it and savours the most delicate pieces of meat. However since the split with his daughter many years ago, this weekly ritual serves as a painful reminder of his loneliness. But thanks to Amélie's intervention, he decides to reconcile with his daughter and towards the end of the film we can see a heart-warming family reunion: Dominique carves a roasted chicken but this time he doesn't eat the best morsels himself – he gives them to his little grandson. Once again food becomes a means of showing love and affection.

And the most moving scene in the whole film is the baking scene. At the end of the film, Amélie makes her famous plum cake (identified by some bloggers as kouign-amann), fantasizing that she prepares it for her sweetheart, Nino. When she notices that she's run out of yeast, she imagines Nino running to the shop downstairs, buying yeast and quietly coming back home to surprise her. When she realizes that it is a cat, not Nino, who has actually entered the kitchen, she bursts into tears. However in some magical way the cake baking really brings Nino to Amélie's apartment and the whole story has a happy ending. I only wonder if Amélie and Nino have finally managed to bake and eat the plum cake? ;)

Amélie (French: Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain), directed by Jean–Pierre Jeunet, France 2001.

More photos! :)

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PS. Tomorrow I will post a review of a French restaurant Zakładka, whose interior seems to be inspired by "Amélie". :)

ZAZIE BISTRO – THE MAGIC OF FRENCH FOOD

Zazie, a French bistro in Cracow's Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, was on many occasions recommended to me by my three friends, incidentally, all of whom are called Michał. Now I wonder if Zazie is some kind of a secret meeting place for Michałs who like French cuisine. ;)

After all their praises, I expected something amazing so I was a little disappointed to find the interior so... ordinary. Even though one of the walls is covered with a large black and white photo of the Eiffel Tower and there is also a cast-iron lamppost bringing to mind Narnia, the whole interior didn't make a striking impression on me and the metal chairs turned out to be extremely uncomfortable. Luckily, friendly waitresses and delicious food compensated for all the shortcomings in aesthetics and comfort.

When I saw a long menu, I didn't know what to choose. I was especially tempted by escargot à la Bourguignonne (snails) but decided to try it next time. Finally, I ordered delicate foie gras with a sweet potato pancake and kohlrabi with port wine (PLN 22). I was slightly apprehensive about this dish but this unusual combination of the ingredients proved to be exceptionally tasty. I think that only a very talented (and brave) chef could have successfully carried out such a culinary experiment. Chapeau bas! :)

 I usually can't resists French onion soup if I spot it in a menu and this time was no exception. The onion soup in Zazie (PLN 9) was quite tasty, even though it was a far cry from the one I ate in La Taverne de l'Arbre Sec in Paris. Nevertheless, it was one of the best onion soups in Kraków.

My friend Gosia ordered very nice Alsatian quiche with bacon, brie, apple, and red onion (PLN 11 / a piece). For dessert we had a pear cooked in white wine served with almond sauce (PLN 11). The sauce was delicious but the pear itself was so sweet and overcooked that it was almost tasteless, which is a pity because the dish has great potential.

The interior is so neutral and the food so delicious that Zazie seems to be a perfect venue for practically every occasion: from a family dinner with kids and the dog, to a meeting with friends, to a romantic date. However, you should book a table in advance because the restaurant is often fully booked – which, taking into account their excellent French food, comes as no surprise. :)

Address: Józefa 34, Kraków (Kazimierz)

Website: www.zaziebistro.pl

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PS. And for dessert a French singer Zaz, whose name alwaysreminds me of Zazie. :)

LA PETITE FRANCE – ALMOST LIKE PARIS

After visiting Charlotte, I've decided to try out other French restaurants and cafés in Kraków. I started with La Petite France bistro, which reminds me of our trip to France earlier this year. We had spent over a week in Paris, visiting all the most important sights such as Versailles and the Louvre but my fondest memory is of strolling through the quaint Saint-Germain-des-Prés quarter with our French friend, who showed us around the city. We could see blasé Parisians sitting in tiny bistros on the sides of narrow streets, sipping espresso from tiny cups and nibbling at French delicacies.

And that's exactly how I felt when after our return to Kraków we went for a supper to La Petite France. The bistro is situated in a relatively quiet part of the Old Town and it has a very minimalistic décor: it's decorated only with black-and-white photos of Parisian bistros and with tastefully showcased French cheeses and preserves. But if the weather is nice, you can sit outside on the pavement and feel almost as if you were in Paris (of course unless you're accosted by a friendly Polish hobo ;)).

The menu, which changes seasonally, offers typically French dishes prepared mainly form original French ingredients. We really liked a pastry with fourme d'ambert (blue cheese) and pear served with lettuce (PLN 17) as well as a goat cheese salad with rocket, raspberries and a raspberry vinegar dressing (PLN 21). I love the combination of pungent cheeses with sweet fruits, especially when all the ingredients are fresh and aromatic. We washed the supper down with white muscadet wine (PLN 8 / glass) and red bordeaux (PLN 12 / glass).

The desserts were also very tasty (PLN 8 – 12). A set of coffee + 3 small pieces of cake will allow you to try an amazing lemon tart (tarte au citron), chocolate cake and a small ramekin of crème brûlée. It's a pity though that the coffee itself wasn't very good. And if you like chocolate, you can't miss fondant au chocolat served with vanilla ice cream (PLN 12). It's the most chocolate cake ever: when you break through the intensely cocoa crust, you will be surprised by thick, melty chocolate inside it. I adore this dessert and the fondant au chocolat served in La Petite France was one of the best I've ever eaten.

The bistro has also a small shop where you can buy various French products. I especially liked chestnut spread (crème de marrons) produced by a popular French company Bonne Maman (which means 'good mummy' in French). Unfortunately, as it usually is the case with brand products, the prices can be quite prohibitive...

Portions served in La Petite France are on a small side so I would recommend it for a light lunch or supper rather than a lavish dinner. Even though the interior isn't very inviting, I think that the quality of food compensates for any other deficiencies. I'll definitely be back, especially when I feel an overwhelming longing for France, Paris and desserts full of chocolate. :)

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Address: ul. św. Tomasza 25, Kraków (Old Town)

Website: www.lapetitefrance.pl and facebook

CHARLOTTE IN WARSAW – IS IT REALLY HIPSTERS' DEN?

 

Reportedly, the most hipster place in Warsaw is Saviour Square ('Plac Zbawiciela' in Polish), and the most hipster place in Saviour Square is Charlotte. When I was in Warsaw, I decided to investigate it myself, especially because I really liked the Charlotte café and bakery in Kraków (you can read about it here).

Saviour Square seems to be one of the most charming corners in the Polish capital. The round square with solid buildings in Socialist realism style is dominated by a neo–baroque Church of the Most Holy Saviour and a half–burnt rainbow awaiting reconstruction. Charlotte is housed in one of the buildings with a colonnade, under which you can find a pleasant beer garden with a view of the whole Square. The café’s interior is rather stark and industrial but it's enlivened with a huge common table decorated with fresh flowers.

My friend, Jasmine, and I sat at one of the few free tables under the colonnade and we were immediately approached by a cute waiter. With his side swept blonde fringe and impeccably white shirt he didn't look like a hipster at all. We discreetly glanced around but unfortunately we couldn't notice anyone bashing out at their typewriter, wearing their granddad’s clothes or even wearing glasses without lenses. We were a bit disappointed. ;)

Nothing in the menu seemed particularly hipster, either. We had a problem to choose just one dish from all the French delicacies but finally Jasmine ordered quiche with ham and asparagus (PLN 9), while I settled on a French toast called pain perdu (literally 'lost bread' in French), which was golden, crunchy and lavishly covered with honey (PLN 12). Yum. :)

Sipping aromatic coffee, we almost gave up hope of meeting a real hipster but at last I saw him! He was wearing a hat (granddad’s?), thick–framed, black glasses, checked shirt, rolled up corduroy trousers and the final proof – elegant, leather shoes without socks. So Charlotte does sometimes become hipsters' den. Mystery solved. ;)

Address: Plac Zbawiciela (Savior Square), Warsaw

Website: www.bistrocharlotte.com , www.facebook.com/bistrocharlotte

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CHARLOTTE IN KRAKÓW - FRENCH DELICACIES

I adore almost everything French, especially the language and the cuisine. Don't you sometimes think that everything in French sounds more dignified and elegant? A hilarious book 'Talk to the Snail' lists names of the dishes that sound appetizing in French and weird in any other language. For example pain perdu literally means 'lost bread' (French toast) and foie gras is actually 'fat liver.' No wonder the French eat seemingly inedible things - they just need to give them a proper name and voilà! :)

Tempted by the Frenchness of the bistro, I went to Charlotte with my friend, who writes a very nice blog about cooking (in Polish). We've both heard that Charlotte in Warsaw has the reputation of being 'posh' and 'hipster' but we haven't noticed anything of that kind in the Kraków branch. The atmosphere was very friendly and casual. We sat on bar stools in front of a big window near the entrance. The stools turned out to be most uncomfortable but at least we had a great view of the Szczepański square and the pavement café. There were some free tables on the mezzanine and in a huge, industrial-looking room at the back of the bistro, but we didn't feel like moving from our vantage point.

We ordered quiche with asparagus and croque-madame (PLN 17), which literally means 'crunchy lady.' Croque-madame is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, embellished with a fried egg. And it's the egg that distinguishes madame from her poorer relative croque-monsieur, aka 'crunchy mister.' My sandwich had a very nice filling of roast turkey and Gruyère cheese, but it also had one crucial flaw: it wasn't crunchy. Quel dommage! :/

We washed down the food with excellent (and inexpensive) lemonade (PLN 4.50). For the dessert we had hot chocolate (PLN 9), which - although not very thick - was tasty and aromatic. Finally, we decided to order a glass of white wine so that we could feel like proper French girls.

I think Charlotte is a great place for a solitary meal or a night out with friends. Because breakfast is served until 11.00 pm, you don't have to be an early bird to catch a French worm. The service was quite good but rather slow so we had to order almost everything at the counter. The biggest plus are the French delicacies (though there's still room for improvement) and a great location in the charming Szczepański square.

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Przeczytaj to po polsku. :)

Address: Plac Szczepański, Kraków (Old Town)

Website: www.bistrocharlotte.com

PS. For the dessert, check out this funny French song. :D