MLECZARNIA x 2

A lot of people know the café/pub Mleczarnia (which means “dairy” in Polish) but not everybody realizes that actually there are two Mleczarnias: one in Kraków and one in Wrocław. Both cafés have old-fashioned décor and mysterious atmosphere. The walls are hung with black-and-white photographs dating back to our great-grandparents' time. Tables are covered with lace tablecloths and the furniture looks as if it had just been found in the attic. In the evenings, candles are the only source of light, which on the one hand creates a romantic atmosphere, but on the other provides extra excitement while walking on the uneven floor.

Both Mleczarnias have similar food and beverages on the menu but there are some territorial differences. As the name indicates, the cafés specialize in milk drinks: cocoa, hot chocolate and various types of coffee. Alcoholic drinks are also delicious, especially mojito and Słodkie Mle (with chocolate flavoured liqueur). If you're hungry, you can order toasts, soups or homemade cakes, while the Wrocław Mleczarnia offers also hearty breakfasts (served between 8.00 am and 1.00 pm, PLN 15.00-18.00 for a breakfasts set). Both cafés are self-service.

Despite many similarities, each Mleczarnia has a slightly different character. Mleczarnia in Kraków is tucked away in one of the side streets of the Jewish quarter, Kazimierz. Apparently this place once housed a real dairy, which gave name to the pub. In winter, Mleczarnia is peaceful in cosy, while in summer it throbs with life thanks to a spacious beer garden across the street. In the beer garden, you can order not only most of the drinks served in the café (except for spirits), but also freshly squeezed fruit juices. A huge tree provides a leafy shade, while fresh flowers in milk cans bring to mind holidays in the countryside.

Mleczarnia in Wrocław, which is much bigger than the one in Kraków, consists of two rooms on the ground floor and a large smoking room in the basement (open from 5.00 pm). A beer garden is located in the courtyard of a newly renovated Synagogue, but it has much less charm than the garden in Krakow. Fortunately, the interior of the Wrocław Mleczarnia compensates for imperfections of its beer garden.

Both Mleczarnias are perfect venues for a date or a meeting with friends. Thanks to the special atmosphere and delicious coffee, I am a regular guest at the two cafes. I always bring my friends along and so far they all have succumbed to the alluring magic of Mleczarnias.

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Address:

ul. Rabina Bera Meiselsa 20, Kraków

ul. Pawła Włodkowica 5, Wrocław

Website: mle.pl

MAMMA MIA IN THE ITALIAN STYLE

I discovered Mamma Mia, a cosy Italian trattoria, thanks to my friends J.&J., who go there to celebrate important events in their lives. A nice atmosphere, friendly stuff and Italian dishes at affordable prices make it a perfect place for a bit more festive dinner or date.

The restaurant consists of a front room (access from Karmelicka Street) and main room (access from the courtyard). The main room is not only larger but also more elegant and more pleasing to the eye. The bare, brick walls are decorated with stylish photos from Italy, while the wood-fired pizza oven warms up the atmosphere (both literally and figuratively). A bookcase filled with wine bottles displays available wines. Unfortunately, the impression of comfort and elegance is spoilt a little by metal pipes on the ceiling and greyish tablecloths on the tables.

Of all the dishes I have tried at Mamma Mia, pizza is by far the best. Pizza Napoli (PLN 25.50) had a thin, crisp base and fresh, tasty toppings. Also a slightly burnt calzone (PLN 24), a turnover of pizza dough filled with vegetables, meat, or cheese, turned out to be very tasty.

 

Once, I decided to try something unusual for dessert so I ordered ricotta cheesecake in fig sauce with pine nuts (PLN 9.50). It did taste unusual... Since then I have always opted for something more traditional, like tiramisu or panna cotta.

Thanks to the friendly atmosphere, Mamma Mia is a perfect restaurant for a family dinner (high chairs are available). And if you choose one of the snug corners, you can feel as if you were on a romantic date in Italy. Because Mamma Mia is one of the most popular Italian restaurants in Kraków, it's advisable to book a table in advance.

 

Address: ul. Karmelicka 14, Kraków

Website: www.mammamia.net.pl

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DYNIA RESTO BAR – THE SECRET GARDEN

I usually stop by Dynia (which means “pumpkin” in Polish) for a coffee and my favourite pumpkin soup. Even though Dynia is situated nearby the noisy Main Market Square, it is an out-of-the-way place where you can completely chill out. Especially in the lovely summer garden nestled at the rear of old tenement houses.

Dynia offers mostly healthy, vegetable dishes, but there is also quite a lot on the menu for carnivores. I usually order pumpkin cream soup or tomato cream soup with feta cheese (PLN 7.50 for a bowl). I also recommend pasta, especially spaghetti with goat cheese, aubergine, arugula and sun-dried tomatoes (PLN 21.90). If you have a sweet tooth, you can order a piece of cake or another dessert, such as apple crumble (PLN 9.90).

The waiters and waitresses in Dynia are very friendly but they sometimes keep you waiting for too long. Therefore, if you are in a hurry, you can walk over to the buffet and order or pay directly at the till. Dynia is a child-friendly restaurant, which provides not only special kids menu and high chairs, but also colouring books and crayons.

The inner garden is a great spot for lunch with friends during the day, while at summer night it changes into a perfect scenery for a romantic date. The garden's magical atmosphere is highlighted by glowing balls hidden among ferns. And when it rains, you can snuggle under a large umbrella and get warm with mulled beer or hot chocolate with rum.

Address: 20 Krupnicza Street, Kraków
Website: dynia.krakow.pl

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