FUSSY ON HOLIDAY - MY CULINARY JOURNEYS

Holidays have come! At least theoretically, because at the moment I have to stay in Kraków and work. That's why I've decided to make some culinary journeys on my blog to the three of my favourite holiday destinations in Europe. I've discovered them all thanks to friendly locals who showed me the less touristy places serving regional delicacies.

MARINA RESTAURANT, COSTA BRAVA, SPAIN

 

A hot afternoon on the Costa Brava in Catalonia, Spain. We are strolling through a picturesque, medieval town of Tossa de Mar. Leaving behind the touristy centre, we're rambling through narrow, quaint streets. When despite the heat we're starting to get hungry, we ask a nice passer-by where we can eat something tasty. Without a moment's hesitation, he recommends Marina Restaurant.

We sit at the table with a green checked tablecloth and order the daily special. Gazpacho soup is cold and aromatic, while grilled salmon is hot and fresh. We wash it down with sangria, Spanish wine punch with fruits and ice cubes. The lunch is delicious and the waiter exceptionally friendly, even for a Catalan. With our stomachs full, we're happy to resume our sightseeing.

Address: Marina Restaurant, Tossa de Mar, Catalonia, Spain

Website: www.restaurantmarina.es

DOBRA TRAFIKA, PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC

When you enter Dobra Trafica cafe, you'll be surprised to see a tobacco shop. But insiders, including my Czech friend Misha, know that if you go to the back of the shop, you'll discover one of the coolest cafes in Prague.

Delicious cakes, especially Czech medovnik, crunchy toasts, thick hot chocolate... Yummy. Plus an ambient interior, summer garden and friendly waitresses. And if you run out of topics to talk about, you can start playing one of many board games lying around. Moreover, Dobra Trafika has two locations! One is near the Prague Castle, while the other is off the beaten track in a lovely district of Vinohrady. Both are equally addictive.

Address: Dobrá trafika, Újezd 37 or Korunní 42, Praha, Czechy

Website: www.dobratrafika.cz

LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN, LILLE, FRANCE

Did you like the French cafe and bakery Charlotte in Kraków? If yes, you should also visit Le Pain Quotidien (meaning the daily bread in French) in Lille. We were brought there by our friend who's almost a local to this quaint city in the north of France. Pain Quotidien felt so cosy and homey, I couldn't believe it's an international chain and not a local cafe. We ordered pain au chocolat (kind of chocolate croissant) and œuf à la coque (soft-boiled egg). The bread was fresh and crunchy, the egg perfectly boiled and coffee with milk delicious. A lovely place for a lazy, holiday meal.

Address: Le Pain Quotidien, 35 Place Rihour, Lille, Francja

Website: www.lepainquotidien.com

And what are your culinary destinations? 
Feel free to give your recommendations on my blog or on facebook! :-)

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Przeczytaj to po polsku

BOMBONIERKA - CHOCOLATE BOX WITH DELICIOUS FILLING

'Life is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're gonna get.' Do you remember this slightly threadbare quote from 'Forrest Gump'? It immediately came to my mind when I went to the restaurant Bombonierka (meaning 'chocolate box' in Polish) situated next to my favourite Mleczarnia in Kazimierz, the Kraków Jewish quarter.

Because of the sweet-sounding name I had expected a pink, rococo interior crammed with ribbons and frills. I couldn't have been more wrong. Bombonierka's interior is designed in a modern folk style, reminding me of the new rooms in the Ethnographic Museum in Kraków. The walls are decorated with patterns of Polish folk art paper cuttings and spinning dancers in flowery skirts. The lamps are adorned with crocheted tablecloths and one of the doors depicts a pair of gloomy peasants in traditional costumes from the Kraków area.

Such an interior would be a perfect setting for some vibrant folk music, such as Warsaw Village Band or Zakopower but, to my surprise, the music was mostly old Polish hits from the 1980s and 1990s sang by Krzysztof Krawczyk or Kayah and Goran Bregović. This kind of music is considered old-fashioned but it doesn't make it folk...

But the biggest and best surprise was the food! The menu is full of various kinds of meat and fish so vegetarians can feel a bit neglected but the dishes we ordered were absolutely delicious. Chicken breast with chanterelle mushroom sauce (PLN 19) melted in the mouth, and so did beautifully seasoned fried potatoes (PLN 5). In grilled pork sirloin steak in mushroom gravy (PLN 28) you could actually feel the crunchy wild mushrooms, while baked potatoes were garnished with spicy garlic sauce (PLN 6). For the dessert I couldn't resist the restaurant's speciality: a delectable chocolate pie with fresh fruit and whipped cream (PLN 14). Yummy. :)

At first when we came to Bombonierka I was rather disappointed that the restaurant's name, decor and music don't form a unified whole, but then the food was so delicious that it pushed all my concerns into the background. I have to admit that it was one of the best dinners I've recently had in Kraków. I recommend Bombonierka for a meeting with family or friends, especially ones that would like to try traditional Polish dishes with an unusual twist.

For the dessert, check out this song by two famous Polish singers. The title is bombonierka, or chocolate box. :)

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Przeczytaj to po polsku. :)

Address: ul. Meiselsa 24, Kraków

Website: www.restauracja-bombonierka.pl

CHARLOTTE IN KRAKÓW - FRENCH DELICACIES

I adore almost everything French, especially the language and the cuisine. Don't you sometimes think that everything in French sounds more dignified and elegant? A hilarious book 'Talk to the Snail' lists names of the dishes that sound appetizing in French and weird in any other language. For example pain perdu literally means 'lost bread' (French toast) and foie gras is actually 'fat liver.' No wonder the French eat seemingly inedible things - they just need to give them a proper name and voilà! :)

Tempted by the Frenchness of the bistro, I went to Charlotte with my friend, who writes a very nice blog about cooking (in Polish). We've both heard that Charlotte in Warsaw has the reputation of being 'posh' and 'hipster' but we haven't noticed anything of that kind in the Kraków branch. The atmosphere was very friendly and casual. We sat on bar stools in front of a big window near the entrance. The stools turned out to be most uncomfortable but at least we had a great view of the Szczepański square and the pavement café. There were some free tables on the mezzanine and in a huge, industrial-looking room at the back of the bistro, but we didn't feel like moving from our vantage point.

We ordered quiche with asparagus and croque-madame (PLN 17), which literally means 'crunchy lady.' Croque-madame is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich, embellished with a fried egg. And it's the egg that distinguishes madame from her poorer relative croque-monsieur, aka 'crunchy mister.' My sandwich had a very nice filling of roast turkey and Gruyère cheese, but it also had one crucial flaw: it wasn't crunchy. Quel dommage! :/

We washed down the food with excellent (and inexpensive) lemonade (PLN 4.50). For the dessert we had hot chocolate (PLN 9), which - although not very thick - was tasty and aromatic. Finally, we decided to order a glass of white wine so that we could feel like proper French girls.

I think Charlotte is a great place for a solitary meal or a night out with friends. Because breakfast is served until 11.00 pm, you don't have to be an early bird to catch a French worm. The service was quite good but rather slow so we had to order almost everything at the counter. The biggest plus are the French delicacies (though there's still room for improvement) and a great location in the charming Szczepański square.

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Przeczytaj to po polsku. :)

Address: Plac Szczepański, Kraków (Old Town)

Website: www.bistrocharlotte.com

PS. For the dessert, check out this funny French song. :D

MIĘTA RESTO BAR - IN MINT CONDITION

The restaurants and cafes I visit can be divided into three categories. Ones that I visit once and decide never to set my foot in them again - I don't feel like writing about them because I don't want to turn into Gordon Ramsay. ;) Ones that I visit once or twice and, though I like them, I don't become a regular customer. And ones that I visit as often as time and money allows.

Mięta Resto Bar (meaning spearmint in Polish) definitely belongs to the last category. This Mediterranean restaurant is located almost exactly opposite Dynia, which I described here. But while I go to Dynia for a quick coffee or a chat with friends, Mięta is usually reserved for our family celebrations.

Mięta drew my attention even before it was opened. A few years ago on my way to the library in Rajska Street, I was wondering what will open in the old building with a beautiful columned porch. I watched with interest how the house was being renovated, paying special attention to mint leaves painted on the garden gate. No wonder I was one of the first customers as soon as the restaurant opened.

 

At first the food was good but not outstanding so we patronized Mięta mainly due to its atmosphere created by old furniture and appetizing photos on the walls. Fortunately, after some time the quality of the food improved so now we go there tempted by various Mediterranean delicacies. My favourite dish are dumplings with pear and blue cheese washed down with limoncello (Italian lemon liqueur), while my friend Jul has developed a taste for wraps with chicken. Other dishes are (usually) also very tasty.

Mięta is a perfect place for a small party, meeting with friends or romantic date. In the summer you can sit in an ambient beer garden with a view of a historic Mehoffer House. Most of the dishes served in the restaurant are garnished with a sprig of the eponymous mint, which was a symbol of hospitality in ancient Greece. It may be situated in an old house, but Mięta is definitely in mint condition. ;)

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Wersja polska 

Address: ul. Krupnicza 19a, Kraków

Website: www.mietarestobar.pl

RODZINKA CAFE - FOR YOUNG AND OLD

 

A cold, cloudy afternoon. My bored niece called Little My is sitting on a sofa, demanding cake and children's games. Things aren't looking good. It seems that the only solution is to find a place which will provide her not only with sweets but also with entertainment suitable for a four-year-old girl. After a quick search on the Internet, I find Rodzinka Cafe (Family Cafe). We put on our warm jackets and set off on a mission.

 

When we arrive, it turns out that Rodzinka Cafe is something between a cafe and a kindergarten playroom. Little My immediately throws herself into a whirl of play. First, she enthusiastically plays with a wooden railway, demolishing the whole wooden city. Luckily, there are no fatalities. After a few moments she turns her attention to stuffed animals and then to colouring books and jigsaw puzzles. But a rocking horse with a real saddle with stirrups becomes her favourite. In the meantime, we play a family game called "Where is the frog?". Obviously Little My wins.

 

We are so engrossed in the games that we forget to take pictures of food, which is a pity as the food was really nice. Little My drinks thick cocoa and sneaks my home-made fruit cake. I have to settle for fresh apple juice and the leftovers of the cake. The only thing we are not delighted with are cream rolls ordered by My.

Full and happy, we get ready to head home. We say goodbye to the nice waitress and the lonely rocking horse. Putting on our hats and scarves, we step from the warm, cheerful cafe onto the freezing Floriańska Street. Lyttle My says she can't wait to visit Rodzinka Cafe again. :)

Wersja polska
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Website: www.rodzinkacafe.pl

Address: ul. Floriańska 15, Kraków

TROUT IN SCORPION - MEMORY OF SUMMER

At summer weekends when the heat in the city became unbearable, we often drove to Niepolomice Forest (Puszcza Niepołomicka in Polish). There under the trees, which probably still remember hunting trips of Polish kings of yore, we strolled through the forest, enjoying the peace and quiet. The outdoor exercise sharpened our appetites so on our way back to Kraków we usually stopped by a restaurant Skorpion in the village called Grodkowice.

The name Skorpion (scorpion) called to my mind an image of a dim den patronized by Harley riders in leather jackets, so I was really surprised by a kitschy, salmon pink interior in the Carrington style. Fortunately there were a few wooden tables outside, which were more to our liking. In front of the restaurant bushes and plants standing in flowerpots create a picnic atmosphere. There's even a small pond with a wooden bridge and a feeble fountain.

My favourite dish is fried trout. Fresh and crispy, it was delicious every time we tried it in Skorpion. Unfortunately it can't be said about all the dishes served in the restaurant. For example a pork cutlet tasted very good, almost as if it was home-made, but potato pancakes (placki ziemniaczane) with spicy goulash were served cold and over-salted. After bringing this to the waiter's attention, we received a new portion, which was just over-salted... Moreover, chips tasted as if they had been friend in old oil, so fresh boiled potatoes turned out to be a much better choice. Luckily, fresh vegetable salads helped to kill the taste of the less palatable dishes.

Skorpion is a nice place for a family lunch in the countryside. You can bring your dog, who shouldn't be in anyone's way in the picnic table area. The main attraction for children is the little bridge and a wooden swing, while peaceful moments away from the city and delicious fried trout can appeal to adults. I'm glad the season for fried trout and walks through Niepolomice Forest is drawing nearer. :)

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Website: www.restauracja-skorpion.pl 
Address: Grodkowice 107, 32-015, Lesser Poland Voivodeship, Wieliczka County, Kłaj district

KLIMATY POŁUDNIA - WINE IN A SUNNY ATMOSPHERE

After a long break, Fussy gets back to her blog. The break from writing didn't mean a break from going to restaurants and cafés so in the near future you can expect a few new, interesting entries. In the meantime my professional and personal life's undergone a lot of changes, for example we've become happy owners of a very cute dog. That's why I've added a new label marking the places in which animals are welcome.

 

One of such dog-friendly places is a wine bar and restaurant Klimaty Południa ("Ambience of the South"). We discovered it soon after moving to Kraków, when we went with our friend to drink some Beaujolais nouveau. We missed the Beaujolais Nouveau Day, which always falls on the third Thursday of November, but luckily we managed to buy one of the last bottles available in the wine bar. We were sitting in a cosy, little room, relishing the taste of the young wine and eating cheese and appetizer board. Yummy. :)

And last month my friend, dog and I went for a warming, winter dinner. We sat near the crackling fireplace, which - despite a glass door separating us from the direct fire - created a warm, snug ambiance. The walls are hung with winemaking posters and a collection of corkscrews, reminding of the restaurant's main function. For a starter we got some bread with cottage cheese spread. It was a nice touch, even though the spread would have tasted better with brown bread or baguette. I ordered seafood tagliatelle with white wine sauce (PLN 24) and even though the seafood had been frozen the whole dish tasted delicious. Jul had some baked bream with grilled vegetables and she was also happy with her meal. We ate so much that we couldn't even think of a dessert, which doesn't happen very often.

I like Klimaty Południa mostly for its warm (even in the middle of winter) ambiance and numerous culinary and visual references to the Mediterranean culture. Friendly waitresses not only provided us with delicious food, but also took care of my dog, who received a decorative bowl full of clean water. The restaurant is a perfect place for a date or a meeting with friends accompanied by a glass of good wine, especially during long, winter nights.

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Address: ul. św. Gertrudy 5 (in the courtyard), Kraków
Website: www.klimatypoludnia.pl

MNISZE CO NIECO – SUNNY AFTERNOON IN TYNIEC

Tyniec is a perfect place for a lazy afternoon in the countryside. The Benedictine abbey in Tyniec is a popular religious and recreation centre on the outskirts of Kraków. Besides church services conducted by the monks, spiritual nourishment can be found in the Museum of the Tyniec Abbey, which houses a rich collection of sacred art. Art lovers can admire the baroque interior of the abbey church, especially an interesting pulpit in the shape of a ship. And if after visiting the abbey you become peckish, you should drop by the nearby restaurant, Mnisze Co Nieco (which means Monks' Smackerel of Something).

The entrance to the restaurant is located in one of the stone gates leading into the abbey courtyard. An austere decor of the two small rooms resembles a refectory: bare brick walls hung with images of saints and monks, wooden tables without tablecloths and quite uncomfortable benches without backs. Shelves on the walls are decorated with preserves in jars and clay bottles with mead.

 

The names of the dishes also reflect the monastic character of the restaurant: St Placid's żurek (sour rye soup), Father Abbot's delicacy or St Marta's chocolate cake with cherry preserve. We ordered nuns' pierogi (dumplings, PLN 12) and Oblates' small feast, i.e. placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes) with sour cream (PLN 12). Pierogi were delicious, especially the ones with sauerkraut and forest mushrooms. Placki ziemniaczane were also good but I had an impression that the oil in which they were fried wasn't quite fresh. Nevertheless, the dishes served in the restaurant agreed with my stomach, which is a sign of a good quality of the food.

 

Tyniec can be reached by car or bus, but the most pleasant way to get there is a bike path along the Vistula river. At sunny weekends, the path is packed with bikers, skaters and strollers, enjoying beautiful views and fresh air. In the summer, you can also travel to the abbey by water bus or kayak. Tyniec and Misze Co Nieco are an excellent destination for a weekend with nature, culture and good food.

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Address: ul. Benedyktyńska 37, Tyniec, Kraków
Website: www.benedicite.pl

AQUARIUS – SEA ADVENTURE

I've been always fascinated by the life at sea: water, wind, and fresh fish. Aquarius Restaurant, located on a barge moored on the Vistula River near the Wawel Castle, can be a substitute for a sea adventure.

After walking along the rickety gangway and entering the barge, you can see some maritime elements: portholes, a fish aquarium and chairs with rope backs (alas, not very comfortable). The pleasant music playing in the background ranges from chillout to pop, but I think that shanties would be more suitable for the boat restaurant. Tables near the windows give a lovely view of the river and the Wawel Hill.

Inspired by the restaurant’s atmosphere, I ordered fish soup (PLN 18), which unfortunately turned out to be very salty. However, żurek (sour rye soup) served with a boiled egg (PLN 11), was very nutritious and tasty. Last year, I ordered here fried trout, which was really delicious, so it's a pity that it has disappeared from the menu. Especially that at the moment the restaurant offers very few fish dishes. 

I feel that since last year the quality of food has lowered while the prices have risen. Fortunately, the fine view and pleasant atmosphere haven't changed. The restaurant is open all year and in the summer there are additional tables on the upper deck. The staff are very obliging. Aquarius is a good place for an unusual date or for a break during a stroll along the Vistula River. But it's too bad that the restaurant doesn't offer more fish dishes at reasonable prices so that you could feel the real taste of the sea adventure.

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Address: bulwar Czerwieński, the Vistula River between the Wawel Hill and most Dębnicki (Dębnicki Bridge)

Website: aquariuskrakow.pl