Saturday 19 October 2013

GENJI SUSHI - CROUCHING TEMPURA, HIDDEN UMAMI

 

Some time ago I wrote a short guide to sushi and gave a recipe for a budget, home made sushi (available here). Now the time has come for a review of one of my favourite sushi bars - Genji Sushi in Kraków.
 

Genji Sushi is a two-level restaurant: there's a light, quite spacious room on the ground floor and several smaller rooms in a dark, slightly musty cellar. Both levels are full of Japanese bric-à-brac and decorations, which create an oriental feel. The restaurant's name derives from a Japanese book from the 11th century considered the oldest novel in the world. 'Genji Monogatari' or 'The Tale of Genji' is a story about life and love affairs of Prince Genji written by a Japanese noblewoman, Murasaki Shikibu. I think the restaurant's name is an interesting choice - on the one hand, it's quite simple and eye-catching, on the other - it alludes to one of the greatest pieces of literature in Japanese history.


Eating sushi isn't a very cheap pastime but it isn't as extravagant as one may think, especially if you have a Kraków's discount card, Karta na Plus. Usually one sushi set in Genji (from PLN 35 up) will allow to satiate an appetite of a not-too-hungry person. If you're starving however, you should choose a set with lots of fish and tempura (deep-fried batter. Very tasty but also very fattening! :)). You can also order a starter, for example miso soup with soybean paste (PLN 5). Its taste is quite distinctive but if you like tofu, you should like it as well (but, honestly, I don't...). Fortunately, wantang soup with dumplings (PLN 13) turned out to be much tastier and more nourishing.




My favourite dishes are uramaki (or 'inside-out roll') with crunchy tempura shrimps and nigiri ('hand-pressed sushi') with butterfish. Butterfish, as its name suggests, is as tasty and soft as butter (but watch out because butterfish can sometimes cause indigestion). In all the sushi sets, thanks to the perfect balance of light food (such as rice, fresh cucumber, nori seaweed) and more nutritious ones (fish, seafood, tempura), you can taste a strong flavour of umami - one of the five basic tastes, described as meaty, fatty or simply delicious.




We went to Genji a few times and on each occasion the food was equally fresh and tasty. The waitresses are very friendly but I have a mixed feeling about the waiting time. Once we had to wait for our food for over an hour (!), because apparently the restaurant was inundated with guests. But next time we visited Genji, we told the waitress about the delay in the past and she made an extra effort to cover over the bad impression - our food was served in no more than 10 minutes. Genji Sushi is a perfect place for a romantic date in one of the dusky cellar rooms, a dinner with friends or simply a quick lunch with delicious sushi and umami.

Address: ul. Dietla 55, Kraków (Kazimierz)
Strona www: genji.pl